Sometimes the best adventures begin in unexpected ways. In this case, it started with Drew, a man who has a habit of bidding on quirky experience-based charity auctions. He’s the kind of person who casually wins a set visit to “Jane the Virgin” one year, or a pair of audience tickets for Tosh.O the next. So when he sat across from me at a Las Vegas restaurant and asked, “So…have you ever wanted to go to Ethiopia?”, I knew something was coming. He had won a lodge stay in Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains, but the most affordable way to get there was through Djibouti. Drew, never one to resist a good joke, added that he wanted to go because “he can’t go to Uranus! (Ahahaha!).”
A Country at the Crossroads of Continents
Djibouti is a tiny nation on the Horn of Africa, bordered by Ethiopia, Somalia, and Eritrea, with Yemen and Saudi Arabia just across the sea. Nearly 94% of the population are Sunni Muslims, and the country has long been a strategic outpost, which explains the presence of multiple foreign militaries. Most visitors are government workers or pass-through travelers heading to Ethiopia or beyond.
Djibouti City, the capital, is the starting point for excursions to the dramatic Lake Assal or Lake Abbe, as well as diving trips to swim alongside whale sharks. It’s also where travelers usually plan their stay, searching among different djibouti hotels before setting off into the desert or the sea. It’s a place where barren land meets ocean in a sudden, striking way: sand, dust, and then, almost out of nowhere, a blue horizon.
First Impressions: Heat and Haze
After thirty-six grueling hours of flights and layovers, the city came into view. Landing felt surreal: nothing but desert, then the ocean, then buildings rising from the dust. Stepping outside was like being wrapped in wet wool. For two people used to the Nevada desert, where “it’s a dry heat actually makes a difference,” Djibouti’s humid air was a shock. Luckily, the airport-to-hotel drive was only about fifteen minutes.
Tasting Djibouti: Yemeni Fish
Food tells you a lot about a culture, and in Djibouti, you can’t skip Yemeni fish, also called mashwi. A whole fish is grilled in a tandoor oven, served simply with lemon and a fiery sauce called zahawiq, reminiscent of a Mexican salsa but blended smooth. It comes with folded mukbaza bread, slightly sweet and perfect for tearing apart with your hands.
We tried it at Mukbasa, a small restaurant in the African Quarter famous for the dish. The bill? Just $14 for two, including water. A note for women travelers: it isn’t common for women to eat in restaurants, and even at home, men and women often dine separately.
Wandering the Central Market
Markets are often the pulse of a city, but in Djibouti City the Central Market was complicated. On our first evening, children as young as three tugged at my shirt, crying “mama!” and holding out their hands. “If Drew hadn’t been with me,” I thought, “I would have felt unsafe walking around alone.”
Inside the market, there were knockoff soccer jerseys, hijabs, and sandals made from recycled tires, but no local handicrafts to take home. Most women wore hijabs or niqabs, and even though I was in long sleeves and pants, I felt “a tad scandalous.” Still, the stares were more curiosity than hostility, and many marketgoers smiled warmly.
Sleeping in Djibouti: Sticker Shock Hotels
One of the biggest surprises was how expensive lodging is. With so many foreign government staff in town, prices soar far beyond the quality offered.
| Hotel | Price per Night | Highlights / Drawbacks |
| Atlantic Hotel | ~$200 | Central, ocean views, colonial charm, but $40-motel quality, no hot water at night |
| Rayan Hotel | ~$90 | Quiet, breakfast included, but hard beds and weak showers |
| Sheraton Djibouti | From $281 | International brand, pool, reliable service |
| Djibouti Palace Kempinski | From $315 | Luxury option, strong reviews, high price |
As Drew put it, the Rayan “tested my limits for accommodations.” The Atlantic, though costly, at least offered a balcony view.
Practical Survival Tips
If you’re considering Djibouti, preparation is half the battle. Here’s what you’ll need to know:
- Wear closed-toe shoes. Streets are uneven and puddles can be questionable.
- Pack breathable, moisture-wicking clothes. The heat is intense.
- Women should dress modestly to respect local customs.
- Bring earplugs: the call to prayer begins at 4:30 or 5:00 AM.
- Don’t forget mosquito wipes, sunscreen, a bar of soap, and cheap flip-flops.
When to Visit and What It Costs
The best time to travel is from November through January, when temperatures are lower and whale sharks appear along the coast. From May through September, the heat becomes dangerous, especially at Lake Abbe and Lake Assal.
Daily costs can surprise first-time visitors:
- Lodging: $100 (budget) to $300+ (average) per night
- Coffee: $1
- Dinner for two: $10–20
- Beer: unavailable
Final Thoughts
Djibouti isn’t the kind of place you stumble into by accident—unless, of course, you happen to follow a husband who loves winning unusual auctions. It’s hot, dusty, and often uncomfortable, yet fascinating for its geography and culture. Between the challenge of the market, the simplicity of Yemeni fish, and the sheer spectacle of the desert meeting the sea, it’s a country that demands effort but rewards curiosity.
For travelers who want a story worth telling, Djibouti provides one, though perhaps not in the polished way of more familiar destinations. As Drew reminded me with a grin, sometimes the best reason to go somewhere is simply because you can.
